October 03, 2024
The Worst Wipeout Of My Life
I never wanted to be in this situation but you have to accept it’s part of what we do and especially out there, you see the videos and hear the stories, I knew it was inevitable eventually. Weirdly I felt comfortable in this moment as the progression to these days has been natural. I guess you take confidence in the prep.
It was my first wave. I had just jumped in and grabbed the rope after whipping Spousey into a couple. It took about 30seconds before he looked at me and said "are you ready?" He had that look, like he knew there was something big coming.
Once I was up, all I could see were lines stacked one after another. Huge black peaks heading straight for us. We weren't up so we let the lads go on the first couple. It felt like each wave in the set was progressively bigger. I started to breathe up as I knew it was going to be a bomb. We came in from a long way out with serious pace and I let go. I was deep but I just trusted it (the wave) to do it's thing.
About halfway down the face on the drop I could see huge bubbles down the line and then a massive broken wave half way up the face. I threw my hands in the air in a sort've "FK ITTT or WTF" sense and then decided to jump rather than going straight into the avalanche.
When I jumped, I was in a really bad spot. There was two lips - one in front and one behind me so I got ripped up and over in the lip. It felt like a really long time of free falling (maybe 3-4secs) before I hit the surface again. I was tucked in a ball bracing for impact. When I finally hit the surface, I got exploded apart and pole driven super deep. Arms and legs uncontrollable, ears squeeling in pain and pure darkness in my eye lids. A pretty scary place and one that activates survival instincts for sure. Once I was through the violence and under the air bubbles, I had control of my limbs again and was able to reach and grab my @mazorca.brand inflatable vest and I pulled. The vest worked instantly and definitely helped me surface quickly considering how deep I was. I’ve had a couple wipeouts out there but this was the first time I’ve actually ever pulled so it was a new experience feeling the vest in action.
I slowly rose up, through the air bubbles and hit the surface. There was another bomb right there. It was a crazy view and huge spit. I came up screaming at that wave because I was so pumped up. I reminded myself to breathe again and got two quick ones before copping it on the head. Spousey didn't have time to get to me on the ski so I got rolled for ages and a long way in as I was so inflated. When I popped up and couldn’t see a ski nearby I knew I'd have to cop another. Pretty exhausted by this stage I copped another massive whitewash and dragged more.
By now I was completely exhausted and struggling for air. Coughing and splattering, I don’t remember seeing Jacko on the second ski pickup attempt but apparently he said “you right?” and said I said “yep” haha. Maybe I was concussed or just high on adrenaline or both. By the third wave I realised I was right in front of the ledge on the inside. I never knew it was in play out there. I'd been dragged hundreds of metres. I was probably 20-30m directly in front of it.
I took another smaller whitewash on the head before the third ski (Shanzy) had time to get to me and got me on the sled. He was like "fk you alright? That was gnarly!!" I said "yep" but my ears were super painful. I was pretty sapped of energy but high AF on adrenaline haha. After a few deep breathes, quick check in about what just went down we went searching for my board. It took a fair while to find it but thanks to it’s bright red colour we eventually did on the inside.
I was still relatively pumped up on adrenaline and didn’t really realise how gnarly the wave actually was. Shanzy was classic and just kept checking in on me to make sure I was good. I jumped back on my ski and took a bit of a break to watch a few from the channel. The pressure in my head was immense. I had a splitting headache and could barely think straight, let alone talk. I remember Tim asked me how that was.. I don't remember what I said in the moment but think it was along the lines of "MY HEAD!! Just so much pressure."
By far the most violent and wild wipeout of my life to date that definitely had me rattled if I’m being honest. So uncontrollably violent. Head felt like it was going to explode with the pressure and my ears were fully flexed out. Don’t know how I didn’t do an ear drum, maybe it was partial because it was painful for days afterwards. In hindsight, I could’ve pulled my @mazorca.brand vest while I was weightless and getting sucked up and before I got sucked over. Instead I was hell bent on getting compact and bracing for impact.
There were plenty of other heavy wipeouts that day. I remember seeing young Brock get absolutely flogged on every wave. You really don't want to come off out there, it just punishes you so hard.
I’m so grateful for my inflation vest I think I could’ve been in a really bad position if I wasn’t wearing one or couldn’t pull it. There was multiple waves in the set and I could've easily been pinned in the impact zone. You hear those stories and it's basically everyone's worst nightmare out there. I also would’ve been screwed without the lads having my back and it felt really good knowing that 3 separate skis came in to get me. Super thankful for Spousey, Jacko, Shanzy and the crew that came to get me. With a splitting headache that lasted for the rest of the session. Painful as fk ears and bit of a mental barrier to get over I was glad to snag a few afterwards.
Watch the YouTube short here
